Category: asks

Hi!! I’m cosplaying squirrel girl (marvel rising: secret warriors incarnation, because her new costume is adorable) and I want to make a squirrel tail? I’m looking for a method without stuffing, maybe with wire? I want it to be tall and wide like in her design? Thanks!! I’m also planning on making her belt(s) out of duct tape if that helps for attaching it

Hello there!


For a tail these size, you will likely need at least some stuffing, even if the entire tail is not stuffed. This is so that the shape can be held in place without any under structures showing through the outer fabric.

Here is a tutorial for a different type of tail style, but it doesn’t use stuffing and has a sturdy attachment method. I would also recommend looking through some tail tutorials to gather more ideas. The fursuiting community is also a great resource for tutorials, so if you’ve only looked for cosplay tutorials, I would branch out.

For something like this, you will want to build an armature of sturdy wire in the shape that you want, and use either a layer of batting over it for the plush roundness or a layer of soft upholstery foam for the same effect. The interior can be hollow, which will save on weight. You can then make a fur covering for it and add your attachments.

The duct tape belts that you are planning will unfortunately not be strong enough to hold a bulky and heavy item such as this is place, ad duct tape eventually stretches and wears out. You will want something firm that can hold the tail in place without sagging over time. I would recommend creating a wide belt out of non-stretch fabric to wear under the outfit or using nylon webbing, like backpack straps are made of. Make sure any attachments are padded.

I hope that helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

Hello! This is a general question (open to answers from anyone) about how to sew pants with a lining to make them poofy. Specifically, characters in Kingdom Hearts. I’ve been wanting to cosplay Ventus/Sora (KH2) but I’m not sure how to tackle the pants. Would I just sew a second layer of pants minus the fly/panel etc., then sew the leg ends together and then fill the pants with batting/foam and then finally sew the top/waist up? Idk how I would sew the zipper in though with the bat/foam in it.

Hello there!


Lining the shorts to create extra space for the poof is a good idea, as is stuffing it, especially if you want a very stylized and cartoony look. Batting would be a better option than foam for this, since it can more easily conform to the poof of the legs (and create the bit of heaviness seen at the bottom of the pants) without needing to go all the way up to the waistband, and without too much added thickness that isn’t as compressible. Another option, especially if you want more poofiness towards the bottom of the pant, is to gather long strips of tulle and sew them into the bottom hemline, between the shell and the lining. This is a technique often used to keep large puff sleeves poofy, and may help you here.

For the lining, I would recommend making it with a straighter leg than the outer pant, and then sewing the two together at the bottom. This will require shaping the outer pant leg so that it is a bit bulbous at the bottom, but then tapers quickly to match the lining. This will allow there to be some space between the shell and the lining, creating not only space for your stuffing, but will help the outer pants stay a bit poofy all on their own (and will allow for the visual heaviness of the more bulbous bottom of the pant). Try a few mockups at ½ scale, then scale it up to a full-sized mockup once you have a pattern that seems to work, and tweak from there to fit a human form.

As for attaching the zipper, it shouldn’t be much different from any other fly front pants, only you are going to insert the lining into the seam with the fly underlap on one side, and insert the zipper between the lining and shell on the other side. Here are a few tutorials to give you some ideas on how it can go together: 1 (button fly, but you would sub a zipper) 2 3 (needs a subscription, but you can get a free trial if you don’t have one).

Be sure that whatever you choose for your outer fabric, that it has enough structure on its own to help hold that shape.

I hope that helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

Help! I used iron-on interfacing to attach the R logo to my Team Rocket uniform shirt…but the first time I washed it, the interfacing lost its hold, & now the letter is coming up. What do I do, & can this be fixed easily? If you need pictures for further diagnosis, message me.

Hello there!

Unfortunately, fusibles aren’t as hardy to washing and wearing as they could be. Usually, these are used for a one-time wear project, or, more likely, used to keep items in place for applique.

I would recommend leaving the letter in place and then sewing around the edges with a zig-zag stitch on a machine to hold it in place. This is a pretty straightforward tutorial on machine applique. If you don’t have access to a machine, you can sew with small stitches by hand around the edges.

If you don’t want to sew it at all, you can use a stronger fabric glue to hold the piece down, though keep in mind that you may need to reglue at regular intervals if it continues to lift. I would also recommend washing by hand and drying by line if you go this route.

I hope that helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

I’m working on a costume of Misa Amane from Death Note, and she wears *a lot* of leather. Any suggestions for how to make other materials look like leather?

Hello there!

I assume you are doing her classic outfit?


For this, you have far better options than leather that are cheaper and easier to sew.

I would look for a garment weight stretch faux leather. This will be a knit fabric coated on one side with a plastic material to make it look like leather, but it will breathe and stretch like a knit fabric. These types of faux leathers are widely available, even at chain fabric stores like Joann.

Another option is wet-look spandex. This will be even more stretchy, which may not be the effect that you want, but will be shinier than most other materials.

If you can find a garment-weight non-stretch faux leather, that would be another option, though most non-stretch faux leathers available in chain stores are a bit heavier in weight than what you would want here.

If you want a challenge sewing but a very 2006 look (hey, sometimes being authentic to the time a piece of media was made is good!), a shiny PVC fabric would be a good option. This is again a knit fabric with a plastic (vinyl in this case) coating, but the coating is smooth and has a high gloss. This is not an easy material to sew, however.

If you don’t mind having a less leather-like look but still keeping the sheen, a mid-weight to heavyweight satin would work well.

Almost any of the faux leather or vinyl options would require a non-stick/teflon foot for your sewing machine, which prevents the fabric from sticking as you sew it. I would recommend a stretch needle if you go with any of the knit options, and you may need a heavier needle for certain faux leathers. You may also opt to use a tear-away stabilizer as you sew, to prevent both sticking and skipped stitches.

It’s unclear how her bodice is constructed, and you may want to add boning and bra cups. If this is the case and you end up with a stretch material, make sure that the direction of greatest stretch goes vertically on your torso, and then flatline the material to a non-stretch material to prevent it from stretching while worn. You can also add boning channels and boning directly to a stretch material, and use the advantage of the stretch to cover the complex curves of a bra cup.

I hope this helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

Hi, I’m going to be cosplaying Phos from houseki no kuni (the short haired version) and I have no idea how to do her leg stripes. If I try painting the dark parts onto some tights or leggings, it would stop them being stretchy/ harden the fabric and sharpies wouldn’t create a sharp line. The only way I can think of doing it is with body paint, which would take me forever to put on. Do you have any other ideas? Thanks 😂

Hello there!


There’s multiple ways to go about Phos’ shell legs that I’ve seen.

Painting is still an option, though you would need to go about it by keeping the fabric stretched while it is painted. One way to do this is to cover your legs in plastic wrap, wear the tights, and then paint over them (the plastic wrap will prevent the paint from touching your skin directly, which can be unsafe for long periods, and WILL stain your stain with Phos stripes for a few days…see: the time I forgot to wrap my legs and had Ultimecia’s leg tattoos for a few days). Another way is to make a duct tape for of your legs and do the same thing. Either way will ensure that the fabric of the tights will remain stretched enough while painted that the paint will not need to stretch much when worn. The drawback of this method is that it takes a lot of time and a lot of paint.

Another method would be to make the tights yourself. I would recommend buying a pair of base tights and adding the stripes with stretch applique. If you use a shiny fabric, this can create an interesting effect, and it will conform to your legs. 

You can also piece together two different materials to build the tights from scratch, though if you don’t have much patterning experience, getting the diagonal stripes will be difficult, and you will need to contend with adding a vertical seam somewhere on the tights, as you likely do not have an industrial circular knitting machine (if you did, you wouldn’t be asking :P). The easiest way to pattern this is against with duct tape – make a form of your leg, draw the spirals, and then cut the tape apart and lay it out flat to create the pattern, making sure that you label the pieces well before cutting them apart so you know what goes where. You can always cut yourself (carefully!) out of the tape form where your vertical seam would need to go, and use that as the pattern for the seam.

If you have some digital art skills, you may be able to make a file of the pattern and get tights custom-printed with the pattern, as well.

You may also be able to find a pair for sale, though it will take a bit of googling (I didn’t have too much luck on a quick search, but I didn’t look terribly far).

I hope that helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

Hi there! I was thinking of being Heather Chandler (from Heathers the musical) for Halloween, but with a darker twist. Idk if you seen the musical, but there’s a part where she drinks blue drain cleaner. I wanted a slimy/vomit looking fluid around my mouth. I don’t want an actual slime/liquid, but something that at least partially dries. Any tips for how to make something like this?

Hello there!

I would recommend looking for fake blood tutorials, and simply changing the color. If the recipe calls for chocolate syrup, I would also omit that, since it is often more for color than texture. These tutorials are going to be skin-safe and some will partially dry if you hit them with a hairdryer or similar.

If you want something shiny that will fully dry, liquid latex painted around your mouth will give that effect. Be sure you are not allergic to latex before doing this!

I hope this helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

Hey, sorry if you have like a lot of asks, feel free to take your time I don’t need to know ASAP, buy I’m working on Cosplaying Cecil Palmer and I need fangs big I don’t know what’s a good brand for short vampire fangs. Thank you so much!!!

Hello there!

Most people recommend Scarecrow brand fangs because they are high-quality and come in multiple sizes. If these are too expensive for you, pretty much any type of fake vampire fang you can pick up at a party store would work, though be sure to get ones that have a thermoplastic included for fitting, and you may only get one use out of them.

I hope that helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

hihi, i’m trying to make a cosplay for tharja from fire emblem but i’m pretty stumped on how to make her crown/headpiece. if you have any suggestions for patterning/construction (and, like….how to keep it on my head lol) or know of any online patterns i could find, i would so super apperciate it!


I like to work with newspaper or just scrap printer paper, because it is cheap and plentiful. It is also really forgiving because you can draw on it, easily cut it and tape it back together. 

How I would approach it: start the pattern by measuring around my head, about the middle of where the crown would sit.  Draw a line of that length on my paper to start the pattern, and then roughly draw the crown shape. I might compare it with a couple references and take some more measurements to get a more accurate shape. Then I would cut it out, tape it together and try it on. From there I would mark it up, cut and add to it until I get the right shape and a good fit – voila, pattern!

Some people prefer to pattern on the computer, which is also an option! It is great for generating symmetrical curves and other shapes. Especially if you don’t have drafting tools.

These tutorials for armor patterning might be inspiring.

***Do the measuring and testing while wearing your wig*** Otherwise it might be too small!


I think, if you want the bevel that appears in some artwork, EVA foam is going to be easy to work with while creating a nice three-dimensional piece.

Otherwise, sculpting may be the way to go. Either with thermoplastics like worbla and thibra or with sculpting materials like foam clay, apoxie sculpt or paperclay. With sculpting, getting a rounded edge (by rolling) is a lot easier than getting a crisp bevel but you can achieve both.

If you wanted to go flat, perhaps craft foam would be a good choice.

Check out these tiara tutorials for inspiration.

Keep it on

hmmm, neodymium magnets might be a good choice. They would be easily hidden and it would make it easy to put on and take off the crown. 

As an alternative, you could look into snaps being sewn to the wig and glued to the crown. These would also have a strong hold and be hidden. Some other options would be combs, clips or attaching the crown to the wig itself. 

Some of her art shows it sitting sort of mid-forehead, buuuuutt I think if you move it up a bit (to where a hat would rest) it could sit on your head nicely without an attachment method. You would have to play a bit with the pattern to get it to sit well and not slip down. When I was looking at references, my guess is a lot of cosplayers go this route. 

Online patterns

No luck on a printable pattern, but this Tharja cosplayer shows her process in detail. It includes pictures of her pattern. 


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Question: I recently bought two shirts that have neat designs on the back. I have long hair that would obscure them, so I’d like to wear them backwards, if that makes sense. Can I alter the collars to accommodate this, & if so, what method do you suggest? They both have T-shirt collars, & one is long-sleeved.

Hello there!

This depends on one major factor: are the shirts symmetrical in cut from front to back? That is, is the sleeve opening, sleeve shape, and shape and size of the front and back panels identical in front and back?

If they are basic T-shirts, the answer will likely be “yes,” though the sleeve shape may be slightly different from front to back. I would try them on backwards and see how they fit before proceeding.

The front collar is always going to dip lower than the back collar, so you will have a slightly lower than usual collar in the back unless you add another material to make up the difference (this could be done in a decorative way, I suppose!). 

The simplest way to alter these would be to cut the back collar so it matches the depth of the front collar (or the depth you want it to be), and then sew on a new strip of fabric to finish the edge. Look for a knit in the same color (or contrasting, if you want to be fancy) as the shirt, make a strip, fold it in half, and sew it on, much like how a commercial T-shirt collar is finished. A rib knit would work well for this, but it doesn’t have to be.

If you want to get fancy with the new collars, go for it! You can turn them into boat necks, or if you wanted to get rid of any sleeves/the sleeve shape was too different front to back to comfortably wear, tank tops, with the back (now front) armhole cut a bit lower and further forward. 

I hope this helps :] Good luck!

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter

@kawaiiboushi submitted to cosplaytutorial: any tips on how…

@kawaiiboushi submitted to cosplaytutorial:

any tips on how to achieve what’s going on with the skirt here? not even sure of the proper terminology to try to look up tutorials or patterns on my own.

Hello there!

The type of seaming on this dress is called “princess seams,” which is a term that denotes seams that run vertically over the fullest point of the bust. These are “armhole princess seams,” as they end at the armhole rather than the shoulder. Princess seams are typically a decorative way to get a bodice with curved shapes, as the seams accommodate the fullness of the bust while still allowing the rest of the torso to be fitted.

Breaking this down a bit further, the dress appears to have some sort of piping or trim inserted into the princess seams (note how the side seams are visible, but less thick and dark than the front seams), the skirt has a slight flare, and the princess seams open from the hip to reveal a light blue inset panel.

I would recommend getting a pattern that is relatively straight through the skirt, maybe with a small amount of flare, and creating the flare by adding the panels – these are basically triangles, and can be drafted yourself. You can use a pattern for a shorter dress and simply extend the bottom for length. Here are a few pattern options that would work well: 1 2 3 4 (Numbers 2 and 4 are the most basic and would be my top picks, personally.)

To draft the inset panels, make a mockup of the dress, and only sew it to the hip, where the opening begins. Try it on yourself or a dressform, and see how much it hangs open. I would recommend pinning in some fabric to hold the slits open slightly so you can see how it looks.

Measure how much you want the slits open at the bottom, and draw a triangle with that as the base measurement and the height as the length of the opening. If your base pattern is flared, make sure to draw the bottom of the triangle slightly curved to match the curve of the bottom of the dress – placing it inside the two pattern pieces and simply continuing the curve works for this.

For sewing, this is a good tutorial on how to attach the panel. (The term for this type of panel is a godet)

I hope that helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff / Twitter